My intimate passion for surfing was set in motion as I entered the phase of life that most adolescents dread, high school. As I walked the halls of a new school, just a small boy among towering seniors, I knew that at any point in time, no matter what in life was going on, I could turn to the surf to find endless jubilation. It was for the exhilaration of that sport that I would wake before school every morning and run into the grasp of the vast ocean. However, it was not until my freshman year of college that I realized the root elements for why I had always surfed. As the stress of college continues to pile on, I truly believe that there is no better way to start the day than by surfing.
The solitude found when surfing in the morning is the element that drives me through a day. Getting up before dawn, being down at the beach before the sun rises, and hitting the cold water: that is the beginning to a perfect day. As I wait for waves, the constant rolling motion of the swells creates a hypnotic atmosphere that isolates me from the constant commotion of everyday life. As the breeze brushes my face and settles me into a state of comfort, there is not a soul in sight to disturb my peace as I become one with the ocean and fall into a meditative state. As I take in a crisp breath of fresh ocean mist, I am invigorated to think deeply about the day ahead of me. When I leave the peaceful confines of the ocean I feel composed and relaxed throughout the day, ready to conquer any challenges I will face. There is nothing better than a painless day with little stress. Despite feeling relaxed and stress free, situations arise that challenge my well being, yet I know that the next morning everything will clear up.
Surfing in the morning revitalizes my mind and body in times of poor health. Every so often, there are those days where I feel under the weather or out of touch with myself. As I lethargically struggle to put my wetsuit on, I feel out of place, like a hermit crab that lost its shell. Wandering down the sand aimlessly I get to the water and collapse onto my board. Once I manage to catch my first wave, my body jolts to life as if nothing were wrong. As I walk up the beach after my surf and see people just leaving their houses, I am amazed at what I have already attained.
After surfing, I am refreshed and take on the day in high spirits. When nighttime comes around, I reflect on the events of the day and realize the best way to start the day is surfing. As I crawl into bed and set my alarm for dawn, I am just as excited to get up for tomorrow and the start the day off right. When the alarm goes off in the morning, I wake up smiling knowing the cycle continues.