I believe in the ocean. And I believe in the magical sport that has blessed me with untold treasures, surfing.
There is an indescribable thrill in tapping into a piece of energy which so effortlessly destroys life, and creates it. It makes me realize how lucky I am. It connects me so intimately with the ocean’s power. Every time I get into the water, natural phenomenon surrounds me. Sometimes it brings indescribable serenity and peace. Sometimes I am begging for its mercy. One particular moment unforgettably deepened my appreciation for the forces which bring me so much fun and peace of mind.
I find myself alone at the beach break and take a moment to appreciate the rare solitude. As I wait for waves on the small day, schools of fish brush my feet under the ripples. All of a sudden, a most magnificent display of chaos engulfs me. A small hum in the distance grew louder and louder, and before I knew it, whoosh SPLASH, a dive bomber hit the water. Then again, and again, and again MORE gulls crash into the water, splashing me repeatedly. The splashes increase in frequency and in a matter of seconds dozens of birds pierce the surface beak first. About fifty yards out, slick brown blobs slide in and out of the surface so fast I can barely make out the figures of over fifty seals sprinting towards the school of fish. Dorsal fins flap about within feet of my reach, and four dolphins pop up in multiple spots around my position, their speed producing an illusion of underwater teleportation. The frenzy lasts for a few minutes before the frantic fish suddenly dart north in a futile attempt to escape the hundreds of predators, leaving me flabbergasted.
After a few more waves I exit the water, still stunned with awe. The incredible display has changed something in my vision. Every component in the beach environment now stands out to reveal complex majesty. I am not just walking on sand, but the product of millions of years of erosion. Land doesn’t just meet water here, it magically frees itself from the grasp of the ocean’s foamy fingers. Then, something catches my attention. The metallic eye sore glimmers in the sunlight and reads in giant bold caps, “PEPSI.”
I believe in the ocean. I believe I need to help take care of it.
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