Surf Wax and Sandy Hair
The world today is full of many problems for humans. From headaches to migraines it seems like one can never avoid having a day without stress. This situation has become even more common with the recent economic problems that have impacted most everyone. Now, imagine yourself sitting on a surf board out in the ocean. You look around and see no one. Behind you, you hear the waves crashing onto the shore and in the distance you can hear a seagull yapping its beak with its noisy call. The water is a pleasant temperature while the sun feels warm on your skin. Finally, you are at peace. There are no troubles to worry about or things that must be attended to. It’s just you and Mother Ocean enjoying a delightful surf session. This is the basic reason why I believe that surfing is a great way to relieve stress.
Before I begin to explain why surfing is a great stress reliever, let me give you a brief history of the activity. No one is certain how surfing actually started, but it was first observed by European sailors in 1767 off the shores of Tahiti. Surfing was more of an art form and a way for chiefs to show and display their leadership. Chiefs were able to gain respect through their enduring ability to master the waves. The practice of this art was what the Hawaiians referred to as surfing. Since that time surfing has grown in popularity and appeal and is now even recognized as a sport.
Surfing is a great way to relieve stress for many reasons. For starters, it is a great way to get exercise which is an excellent stress reliever and a tremendous hobby to pick up. Whenever I find myself having a stressful day of class, I find that surfing is just what the doctor ordered. Where else can you shut the world out for a couple hours and enjoy the thrill of standing on a board while you are maneuvering yourself down the side of a wave. Imagine scanning the horizon while looking forward and being able to see miles and miles of endless ocean. This act alone can bring me a sense of peace. There is almost a feeling of oneness that comes from the bond that is formed between you and your board. For some it is close to being somewhat of a religious experience involving a ritual of people praying for safety and strength before even entering the water. This is a relationship surfers have with the ocean due to a immense deal of respect for the great body of water.
I have been told by some that surfing isn’t enjoyable because you fall a lot and get pounded wave after wave. Yes, in most cases you do tend to fall a lot, but that’s when practice comes into play. Surfing is an experience that only, the act itself can do it justice. As the line from the Beach Boys song says, “Catch a wave and you’ll be sitting on top of the world.”