From the first time I stood up and felt the energy beneath my feet, I was consumed. Surfing is my belief, my passion and my life. It defines who I am and shapes me every day. Surfing requires a combination of faith, respect and strength which tests and builds me through practice and experience.
Stepping into the water with my surfboard, I surrender myself to the ever-powerful ocean. Simultaneously, I must have faith in my equipment and my abilities to see me through the session. Once I am in the water, I am able to feel the energy all around me. There is energy everywhere in the ocean, the wind, the sun, and any people surrounding me. This becomes a reminder that I am at the fate of these things I cannot control. However, what I can control is my actions and reactions to the uncontrollable aspects.
Surfing has taught me the importance of balance and rhythm in life. Not every day is the best of days, but I have learned through surfing that it is important to approach situations with a positive and open mind. When I allow myself to be thankful for the good and to learn from the bad, I gain experience which can be used in all aspects of life.
Surfing has also taught me to be an individual and to respect the individuality of others. Each new wave is a canvas on which I can express myself and leave my mark. When I am on land the world becomes my canvas and I strive to leave my own positive etchings. I’ve also learned through my expressions that people define themselves through their own special ways. It is important to respect the different ways people find to express outwardly who they are on the inside.
Surfing comes with its’ share of pains and struggles, just as with anything in life. As I live each day I recognize that, just as any other belief, surfing is not a perfect principle, meaning that there is always room for improvement. However, surfing provides me with happiness in life and the joy of having faith in something. I believe it is vital to have faith and a reason to live life fully. I believe in surfing.
If you enjoyed this essay, please consider making a tax-deductible contribution to This I Believe, Inc.