I believe everyone needs something to relax them.
It doesn’t matter what you do just as long as you have something that makes your life bearable. Stress can come from work, school, physical appearance, speeding tickets, or that beautiful girl down the street who seems to rather watch a cow get milked than look in your direction. I’m not saying I can’t stand any of those things. Heck, without them we wouldn’t need whatever it is that relaxes us. This could be playing sports with friends, watching TV on the couch with some unhealthy goody, reading a book, playing video games, being outside on a walk, etc. Everyone has that one thing that makes everything else seem not as important.
I enjoy surfing, and I’ll try my best to explain why it is so relaxing. That doesn’t mean you’ll want to go out and do it since we each enjoy different things. For example, lying in bed watching TV could be one guy’s paradise; for me it’s just a notch below being tied to a car and being dragged down the highway. For me the best time to go surf is early in the morning. I get up about 5:20 a.m. put some wax on the board and head out to the beach. On the best morning no one else is up or out surfing yet. So, at least for a little while, it appears that the ocean is all mine. As soon as my foot reaches the water I forget about everything. I hop on my board and paddle out to where the waves are starting to form. As soon as I reach that spot I sit up to see the sun is starting to rise over the horizon. I just sit there for a moment watching the sun start to slowly rise. Not to sound like a cliché from a Nicholas Sparks novel there is nothing more beautiful as being out in the open ocean, just me and my board watching the sun rise. After sitting there for a bit I start looking for a wave to take. When that wave comes I start paddling and when the time is right I pop up. For a short time I am flying on top of water.
I know that life can be hard. Sometimes you’re working so much that it feels like you don’t have time to breathe. Yet, try to find that time where you’re out doing what you enjoy; otherwise what are you working for?
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