I believe that if everybody surfed, the world would be a better place. If everybody surfed, everybody would be friends.
Surfing is the best thing in the world. When I’m surfing, and I drop into a wave, I feel like it’s my moment.
When I’m in a tube, it seems like everything is silent.
Some people judge surfers the wrong way. When I was younger, I met this kid at the beach, and he wanted me to come to his house to play video games. I was surfing that day, having a good time, and he asked me to hang on while he went to ask his if I could. Then later on I looked over my shoulder, and I saw him talking to his parents then he pointed at me, then he came up to me and told me I couldn’t.
I still think to this day that his parents judged me the wrong way, because I was a surfer. Don’t judge people by what they do or what they look like.
If you enjoyed this essay, please consider making a tax-deductible contribution to This I Believe, Inc.