I believe in that perfect wave. When I’m out in the water all day, and that glassy set comes. The fear that rushes over my body as I turn my board and paddle my hardest, just hoping that it doesn’t swallow me alive. The intense feeling of being lifted to the top and then carving down its monstrous face as it passes under my feet. No matter how big it really is, it always seems to be at least three times bigger than me. Sure, there are times when I fail, but it’s those times that make succeeding only that much more thrilling.
I believe in feeling the rain on my face. On a cloudy day, as the drops fall from the dark sky and people begin to shelter themselves from it, I embrace it. I stand beneath the immense sky, only to be drenched by its fury. True, to most, this may seem a bit odd, but the feeling it gives… It’s indescribable. It’s freedom.
I believe in the moments in life when you choose to make the most of it, rather that running and hiding. I believe in challenging the norm, stepping outside your boundaries, and doing something that no one would expect you to do. I believe that it is only when we are capable of doing such things that we are truly free. I believe that freedom comes from the ancient phrase, “carpe diem”, which dictates that we should live each moment as if it were our last, because life is too fragile to play it safe. Life is only truly lived when a person can challenge their own fears, thoughts, and capabilities.
In my short life, I have experienced pain, death, love, hate, desire, grief, and many other parts of human life that are considered essential. Through every experience, it has only brought me closer to the idea of what life should really be lived like and what things in life should be sought after. I have found that life isn’t about going though the motions and experiencing everything tat you are supposed to experience, but that life is about veering away from that path and taking a road trip every once and awhile. When a person allows themselves to travel down the road less taken, they are allowing themselves to be free. I believe that true happiness can only come from moments like these; moments when safety and comfort are no an option, only a persons intuition, feeling, and uncertainty can guide them to their destiny.
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